China Trade 2007 03

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Red Capital Club

One of the pioneers in Beijing's culinary renaissance was American entrepreneur Lawrence Brahm. In 1999, the long-time Beijing lawyer launched the popular Red Capital Club in an old courtyard home. But don't be put off by the exclusive sounding name. There are no members to this club. "Anyone can be a Red Capitalist," says Mr. Brahm. "We have a very proletarian approach."

The beautifully restored 200-year-old courtyard house, with its post-liberation theme bar and Qing-style dining room, was an immediate ht. The chefs are said to be veterans of the kitchens of Zhongnanhai, headquarters of former top Communist officials.

The" Marshal's Favorite," hot green peppers stuffed with shrimp, pork and bean curd, is thus named because several of China's old marshals were natives of the pepper-growing provinces of Sichuan and Hunan and liked fiery dishes. "South of the Clouds," a filleted fish covered with scallions and spices and baked between two pieces of bamboo netting, was a favorite of another marshal who first tried it when the Red Army was fighting its way across Yunnan during the civil war. The delicious "Deng's Chicken" is decorated with two small black and white cats ,one carved out of a beet and the other from a turnip. The reason ? Former leader Deng Xiaoping once stated: " It doesn't matter whether a cat is black or white, as long as it catches mice."

In the center of the courtyard is a square cover that opens to the bomb shelter, built during the 1960s when Sino=Soviet relations were at an all-time low. Guests are welcome to twist and wind themselves down the narrow steps for a look at what is now the wine cellar.

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