A trip to Beijing without visiting the Great Wall is incomplete.
But such a visit is often accompanied by bustle and bustle, noise
and fatigue, Fortunately, an alternative is there for you.
The Badaling section of the Great Wall is the first choice of
many tourists. My favorite is the Mutianyu section, not because
former US president Bill Clinton visited it, but because of a
Manchurian hunting lodge nestled in the north, the Red Capital
Ranch, It's the first and only eco-tourism resort set on a private
estate.
First Eco-Tour Resort In Beijing
Located in the suburbs some 70 km from downtown Beijing, the Red
Capital Ranch covers 3.3ha, surrounded by mountains, rivers and
the ruins of the Great Wall. The place belonged to a Manchu branch
in the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644), and later served as a hunting
ground for the royal families in the Qing Dynasty(1644-1911).
The owner of today's ranch took inspiration from the hunting lodges
of Qing emperors Kangxi and Qianlong. The work took two years,
with the participation of artisans who repaired the Forbidden
City. The ranch architecture features a combination of Manchu,
Mongolian and Tibetan Buddhist cultures. The oriental philosophy
of Zen School of Buddhism as well as Taoism - revering nature
- was applied in its layout.
A special bus service from the ranch is available to bring visitors
from downtown, and the ride takes more than an hour. At the ranch,
a large pseudo-classic gate connects a life-like ancient wall
extending from the mountain. Most of the wall has been renovated
superbly. An aura of mystery surrounds the ranch. I'm familiar
with the feeling because two years ago I visited the Red Capital
Residence in a Beijing Hutong (small alley). It's no surprise
,since they are owned by the same person.
A Place of Good Geomantic Omen
We seemed to have gone back in time. A valley of luxuriant vegetation
is dotted with antique Ming and Qing style buildings. A river
winds through the estate, and the Great Wall ruins are visible
half way up the mountain. The wall here was built in the Ming
Dynasty, to resist the Manchurian aggressors.
The mountains, water and undulating wall reminded me of a pattern
in feng shui (or geomancy): black dragon on the left and white
tiger on the right. The gate in east, the "black dragon"
, symbolizes fortune and wisdom. The Tibetan Tiger Lodge in the
position of the "white tiger" symbolizes the realization
of dreams. The mountain top in the north is the "black tortoise",
which gives the blessing of security and peace, while the river
in the south is where the "red phoenix" is, implying
good luck.
Building on this unique environment, the ranch owner used the
Taoist philosophy of nature in building restaurants, bars, teahouses,
pavilions and a dozen villas.
e ranch are ten distinctive villas.
All the buildings are made of stone, wood and bricks, taking
consideration of the space proportion between people and nature.
Many of the owner's personal collections are scattered around,
including bridgehead stones, stone carvings and wood sculptures
of the Ming Dynasty, and stone animals of the Qing Dynasty. The
thinking is clear. After all, the conception of "green"
depends more on our respect and care of nature, not just decoration.
Manchu, Mongolian and Tibet Cuisines
Entering the ranch, we first came across several distinguished
bars and canteens.
The Warlord's Room is decorated in a nostalgic 1950's style. Guests
can relax and enjoy a cigar along with a drink or snack. The old
camera by the bar was used in the 1950s to photograph a number
of state leaders, a significant witness to history.
The Tibetan Tiger Lodge is an ideal place for a hearty chat over
wine while enjoying the view of the Great Wall ruins. On display
inside the bar is a tiger-patterned door from a Tibetan temple
of the 19th century.
The Manchurian Hunting Lodge provides an excellent dinner. The
d¨Ścor and food are a mixture of Manchu, Mongolian and Tibetan
styles. There is a rich variety of food, drinks and deserts, including
roast meats like Mongolian lamb and Tibetan yak, black bean curd,
green tea ice cream, Mongolian cheese, Tibetan buttered tea, Yunnan
coffee and French wine.
Residing in the Eight-Trigram Battle Array
Walking away from the teahouse past the goldfish pond, I arrived
at a wonderland. Ten distinctive villas came into view, arranged
in an eight-trigram battle array clockwise from the south, named
water, lade, thunder, wind, mountain, fire, heaven, earth, yin(feminine
or negative principle in nature) and yang (the masculine or positive
principle in nature). Most of the rooms in these villas are either
traditional Chinese, Tibetan or Manchu. In the three Tibetan-style
Shambhala Residence suites, the screens are made from temple doors
from Lhasa. The four Manchu suites, the Manchurian Residences,
are decorated with Qing Dynasty carvings. Two Dunhuang Suites
are decorated with images of flying Apsaras styled on the Dunhuang
Mogao grotto frescoes. The cave-style Yanan Retreat recreates
the utopia-like atmosphere.
The theory of the five elements (metal, wood, water, fire and
earth) was applied to each house, with Qing Dynasty stone animals
and deck chairs for guests to relax.
Settling down in the ranch, I found that almost every scene here
has a story behind it. I suggest that visitors first read the
pamphlet available in each room and then tour the ranch following
the instructions.
Don't be fooled by the graceful classic styles - each room is
equipped with all mod-cons. Even the tea bags and bathroom articles
are choice products: scented tea, Chinese cassia soap and ginseng
shampoo. Six Mongolian tents and traditional Chinese and Tibetan
spas will be built soon.
Touching the Great Wall
After a sound sleep in a quiet environment, I felt completely
refreshed. Sightseeing seemed the best choice following a free
breakfast. There are two choices - enjoy the sight of the Great
Wall from one of seven kiosks, or just go ahead and climb the
wall.
It was a foggy day, so I had only one option, the more physical
one. According to the staff, it takes only half an hour to reach
the nearest site, but it's a four-hour return trip to the mountaintop.
We went along a mountain path into the thick forest. It is not
too challenging, but as there is no established path, we had to
find our own way up the mountain. Perhaps we took the wrong way.
Instead of climbing onto the wall, we had to carefully step along
the edge of the wall between the cliff. But it was worth the effort.
Compared with the crowded scenes on a group tour, this free and
easy adventure is far more more exciting, original and interesting.
Nearing the top, I extended half my body into the air and stretched
out my left arm for a few close-up shots of the gate tower from
a wider angle. Then I faced the wall, gripped the bricks and started
climbing. Although it was not so dangerous, my legs and arms ached.
The proverb goes, "he who doesn't climb the Great Wall is
not a true man." You have to pay for being a true man.
1, The cave-style guestroom
2, Some rooms are decorated with images of flying Apsaras as in
the frescoes of the Dunhuang Mogao Caves.
3, The Tibetan Tiger Lodge is a Tibetan style bar.
4, Various ancient objects are on display inside the Manchurian
Hunting Lodge; for instance, hunting weapons used by ancient aristocrats.
(photo by Andy)
5, "Monk fish" is a vegetable dish using white mushrooms
(78 yuan). It originated from temple cuisine.
6, Tibetan mutton steak(118 yuan)
7, Baked corn cake (8 yuan/piece).
8, My intimate touch with the Great Wall (photo by Andy).
Travel Tips:
Food: The Red Capital Ranch provides a rich variety of
food and drinks. Their prices for reference: appetiser soup 25-68
yuan*; seafood and meat dishes 78-188 yuan; wild herb and vegetable
dishes 8-78 yuan; desert and beverages no less than 20 yuan. Lunch
packages are available for walk-in. Breakfast is free of charge.
Accommodation: Only 10 villas are available at the ranch. Reservations
are requited.
Website: www.redcapitalclub.com.cn
Tel: (86) 010-8401-8886
Price: Each villa can accommodate two people: US $188/night
(plus 15% service charge)
Transport: No public buses go to the Red Capital Ranch.
But the ranch has special buses running between the ranch and
the airport/downtown city (a ride of 1-1.5 hours) and between
the ranch and the nearby Mutianyu Great Wall Scenic Area (admission:
36 yuan, gondola service: 35 yuan one way and 50 yuan return).
